[Table of Contents] [Search]


[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Conserving dust jackets & warped boards



This is the slightly-condensed file of responses.  I sent it to all who
asked, so people who want it right now probably have it, but this way it
will be archived for the future.

                     _________
|\        /|       /________/(
|? \    / ?|      (________(/(___
|??? \/ ???|    /_(________(/__/(
|   Judy   |   (______________(/(
|  Kerman  |   (Mayapple Press(/(
| Saginaw, |   (______________(/
 \ ? MI ? /
   \ ?? /       http://www.cris.com/~Jkerman
     \/

[concerning conserving dust jackets]

>From Gillian Boal <gboal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: One of the ways of
preserving a dustjacket is to make a polyester wrapper by following the
folds in the dust jacket. Then for $6. you can have a clamshell box made
by Micro Climates.  In public libraries they use a polyester wrapper which
they purchase from a library supplies catalogue. If you need more
information I'll get you the details.

>From OWEN BRADFORD <Owen.Bradford@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: It's hard to say
without seeing the paper...impossible from here!  You can laminate a
backing onto them for support and a framing supplier can give you this
tissue which has a heat sensitive glue on for this purpose and you just
iron it on. Your bookbinding friend may also have a supplier who can get
you this. Another option is to make your own using white adhesive (PVA)
but it is very argumentative if the books are valuable. If so you coat
some tissue in PVA and also the dust Jacket, wait until completely dry and
then iron together. This is better than just gluing as there is no
moisture and therefore the jacket will not warp or curl.

>From Jane M Brown <brownjm@xxxxxxxx>: I have *repaired several dustjackets
by backing the entire jacket which I think looks better than individual
mends to small tears, especially since there are likely to be additional
small tears in other places later.  The biggest problem in doing this is
that the different weights of paper dry at different rates, so paper
selection (as close to same weight as possible) and slow drying need to be
considered.

>From ANN ELIZABETH FLOWERS <aflowers@xxxxxxxxx>: At the Bentley Historical
Library conservation lab, our treatment of deteriorating dust jackets
consists of deacidifying them with Wei T'o (after testing the inks to make
sure they are fast), then backing them with a heatset tissue.  We use
Ademco cerex tissue or crompton tissue depending on the type of dust
jacket.  We do it in our Seal press, but either of these tissues can also
be ironed on.  We use silicon release paper between the heat source and
the item.  The Ademco products can be purchased through University
Products.

>From Artemis Bonadea <artemisb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: If you use a book
jacket with a paper backing, you can place the jacket carefully between
the two layers (Mylar and paper), arrange any pieces or tears properly and
then sandwich them in place.  The mylar has an electromagnetic charge that
will (usually) hold all the pieces in the proper place.  I often do not
repair jackets when I am encasing them in a clear cover.  It saves time
and ensures I don't do the wrong thing.

[concerning warped boards]

>From OWEN BRADFORD <Owen.Bradford@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: Sounds to me as if the
book has been in a damp place at some point in its history. There is
normally little you can do except replace the endpapers and the act of
gluing them onto the board usually causes the board to curl back the
correct way when dry. (Don't be alarmed if it curls the wrong way while it
is still damp)

>From Jane M Brown <brownjm@xxxxxxxx>: For the splayed boards:  Moisten the
inside end papers (pastedowns), insert a blotter sheet between text block
and pastedown sheet and put under pressure.  A press if you have one;
several heavy books if you don't.  Check on regularly so that moisture
under pressure does not turn into mold, perhaps even change blotters from
time to time.  This has worked for me a few times.  If someone on the list
comes up with a better suggestion, please let me know.  Also, if the
condition is not too bad, just putting the book in a bookcase tight with
books might work.  Display of the books is going to make the condition
worse, however, and will probably undo any correction that you make.

>From Artemis Bonadea <artemisb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>: regarding the warping
on *the cave birds*.  While it may be possible for the book cloth to
shrink, it could also be that the pull from the book cloth far outweighs
the pull from the enb paper glued onto the opposite side.  If the pull of
the book cloth is greater, it will always warp outward unless it is
restrained.

In the past, I have handled such books by inserting a piece of *damp*
blotter inside the cover, with a piece of wax paper or mylar to act as a
moisture barrier and protect the text block.  Close the book as much as
possible.  The moisture from the blotter will go into the endpaper and
board.  When the cover board is humidifyed enough to close, remove the
blotter and leave the wax paper/mylar in place.  Dry the book under weight.

Depending on the moisture in your air, it may stay flat.  If there is too
much moisture, the book covers will absorb it and ad warp as it dries.
If it should warp again, repeat and 1) shelve into a book case so the
covers have some pressure on them, 2) construct a box to hold the book
rigid, 3) wrap in a strip of mylar (the same height as the book) or 4)
some method of keeping the book restrained I haven't thought of.

Since books spend more time on the shelf that  off, I have had pretty
good luck just getting the covers flat and shelving the book.  I've only
constructed a box when the neighboring volumes weren't tall enough to
support the volume.


[Subject index] [Index for current month] [Table of Contents] [Search]