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Re: moire endsheets
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Re: moire endsheets
- From: Sam Lanham <slanham@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 20 Mar 1997 20:00:55 -0500
- In-reply-to: <199703202226.QAA20477@austin.sig.net>
- Message-id: <199703210101.RAA19241@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
. Some of you have
>suggested making them myself. I don't have a drymount press, so that
>From Light Impressions (and others) you can get a low temperature
double-sided adhesive sheet which goes between the silk and the backing
paper and can be activated with a household iron. I use it with silk
brocade which doesn't work well with the usual wet process backing.
How else might it be done? I'm afraid if I slather PVA on
>Japanese paper and then try to put silk fabric on top it will 1. bleed
I've had this problem with PVA so I use wheat paste with silks other than
brocade. If the silk is very sheer it is sometimes necessary to put a thin
layer of paste on a smooth surface, brush the backing paper onto that and
strip it off, then place it on the silk. This will enable you to back
sheer silk without the paste striking through.
2. I'll wind up getting glue all over the silk out of klutziness,
Another good reason for using paste---you can just wash it out and start over.
My passion is traditional Asian binding so I do a lot of fabric and paper
backing. I prefer usumino ("thin" mino) for backing but the Fuji paper
(#MM1) handled by Hiromi is good and less expensive. BTW, the Japanese
backing process is described in detail in Ikegami, JAPANESE BOOKBINDING. If
you don't have access to this let me know.
Sam Lanham (slanham@xxxxxxxx)
The highest pleasure is to do a good deed in secret and have it discovered