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Re: leather doublures



I've done doublures and inlay/onlay panels off the book and then adhered
them. Just do the panel on a piece of 10 pt. acid-free bristol or some such
thin board. You can glue it on with PVA or mixture (if you need some degree
of pull to counteract the leather on the outside) or, if the cover is
already flat and you're afraid of curling from wet glue, use something like
Gudi (TALAS has it) or some other dry adhesive or film  with a peel-off
silicone paper backing. That way you can stabilize the book cover and the
doublure independently.

By the way, on the subject of paring, one of the respondents to my posting
about paring machines (sorry I don't have the reference here-- it was
received on another computer) suggested that was fine for "commercial" work.
I'd just like to clarify that I use the machine for fine, design, and
metaphoric binding when edge paring is necessary. I don't want to spend my
time doing something a machine can do a hundred times faster (it takes about
5 seconds to pare a 15" edge). I'd rather spend my time being creative.

Sometimes it leaves a little ridge where the paring begins, which I bevel in
with a hand knife. I don't use exactly a French or English or German knife,
but have adapted a blade design somewhere between them, which is curved like
a French knife so that there is no point to nick the skin in overall paring,
but is almost straight on one side for edge paring. That way I can do
everything with one knife. If anyone is interested I could try scanning the
knife blade on the scanner bed and posting the result to a web page.

            Richard
            http://minsky.com


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