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Re: Marbled Paper

Iris Nevins wrote:
> Lisa asked about paper for marbling.
> Computer paper is usually good, but fragile practice paper. Some brands m=
> ay
> work better than others, some not at all. You'll have to experiment.
> For "real" paper for marbling I swear by Classic Laid or Classic Linen.
> They are acid free, but apparently not buffered with calcium carbonate,
> which tends to repel marbling colors. I don't know whether these papers a=
> re
> available in Canada, but they are very common printing papers in the US.
> They are not available in art stores, but through paper distributors (fou=
> nd
> in Yellow Pages under "Paper") that supplies printers with paper. General=
> ly
> you have to order entire cartons of 1,000 sheets or so. These places will=
> supply samples to test. 70 Lb. text weight is best, though 60, 75 and 80
> lb. are OK too.
> Most acid free papers will not marble well so if you have access to some,=
> test them first. It seems to be next to impossible to get a distributor o=
> r
> manufacturer to tell you how the paper is made acid free, they seem to
> consider it a secret. If it is done by buffering with the calcium carbona=
> te
> you can pretty well forget it. As more and more papers become acid free,
> marblers have had to give up their old stand-by reliable papers. Not to s=
> ay
> that we used rotten acidy paper before........most were very near neutral=
> good quality printing papers. In any case a little acid content is added =
> to
> the paper with the marbling process, so it will still be left up to the
> bookbinder or other user of the paper to deacidify if they wish. Still
> after marbling the papers are pretty near neutral anyway. What's nice abo=
> ut
> using the Classic papers is that, of course the back, unmarbled side is
> still acid free after marbling.
> Papers from art stores that work well are Canson and Strathmore (or maybe=
> some other brands) Charcoal paper. Sketch pad paper is pretty awful.
> Water-color paper is so-so depending on brand, but heavy for bookbinding.=
> Make sure the ox-gall you get is the type used for marbling, not an "art"=
> brand such as Windsor Newton. This will work, but you'll need tons of it.=
> If the gall is pale, like apple juice, you have the cleaned up, polite
> version of ox-gall. The "real" marbling gall is dark brown and it takes
> some getting used to the awful smell of it, but you need very little to
> make the colors spread. Also very important, especially for bookbinding
> use, is to make sure the colors are not too "fugitive", meaning they woul=
> d
> fade quickly with exposure to light. It also helps if the company you ord=
> er
> supplies from has a marbler on hand who can give technical advice in usin=
> g
> their materials, because marbling is very troublesome at times, to say th=
> e
> least. =
> Good Luck... ......I hope you have wonderful fun marbling. Feel free to a=
> sk
> for advice anytime.
> Iris NevinsIris,
Are you able to use the white in the Classic Papers - I always have
problems with white papers - someone tol me that it is the bleach. I have
some old Beckett Enhance that marbles beautifully in every color except
white or off-white. I have use the gray Classics with good success, but
would like the white background. Thabnks for your help, JAcqueline

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