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Re: Pasting down endpapers
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Re: Pasting down endpapers
- From: Claudia Stall <cstall@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 3 Oct 1997 13:32:32 -0700
- Message-id: <199710032042.NAA18638@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
We put in a lot of end papers when we rebuild books. The particular problem
you cite is not clear to me or has not been a problem here. It could be the
order of the steps or not waiting long enough for drying time.
Here are the steps we take in a re-build. Hope it helps.
1) Remove both boards and spine from book. Remove old super from boards,
clear off any loose bits and sand smooth. Set aside.
2) Carefully remove old fly leaves from book block.
3) Tip on any loose pages or signatures to book block.
4) Select folded set of acid-free end papers and cut to book block height
plus a zillionth of an inch each side. Just so you can barely see the edge
peeking out each side.
5) Separate one set for front and back. Using the edge of the work table,
bend the center, folded edge up the same size as the hinge of the book
block. Tip onto book block. Bone well.
6) Cut super slightly less than the book height and wider than the spine by
one to one and a half inches each side.
7) PVA super just to spine, rubbing well and finishing with a bit of water
on your finger to smooth the entire spine area. Be sure to leave the two
sides of the super on the front and back free from PVA.
8) Place in press with waxed paper to protecct press from PVA and let dry.
9) When dry, take to paper cutter and trim fore edges to book size plus
At this point you can proceed to recase either in original case, attach
boards separately using the paste down and pressing again then making a new
spine with book cloth, or making a new case with book cloth then attaching
to book block.
I believe that pressing after tipping on the end papers and attaching the
super keeps them from creeping outward. All papers will stretch when wet so
its best to handle them as little as possible and get them into the press
pronto. Don't forget the waxed paper as you can easily glue the book shut.
All this looks harder than it actually is. Good luck.
One caveat: This procedure is used for circulating materials not intended
for valuable and special collections.
>I've been experiencing a problem with my endpapers. Following the
>instructions in all the books, I cut them square and the same size as the
>next page in the book. Then I paste them and insert the bookblock in the
>case. And, naturally enough, the pasted endpaper has stretched and winds up
>bigger than the unpasted half of the end paper. This is unsightly when the
>book is closed, because the endpaper protrudes beyond the block, so the
>inner faces of the squares aren't just the cover material, but half paper,
>half something else, and at worst, the paper has stretched so much, it even
>extends out beyond the squares altogether (that was on a large book).
>None of my reference books even mentions this problem. Are there
>don't-stretch-when-pasted papers that I should be using? Is there some way
>of trimming it once it's pasted and I can see how much it's stretched?
Head, Collection Preservation Unit
San Diego State University
"Be kind, do good work, and touch the earth gently."