[Table of Contents] [Search]

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: Pasting down endpapers

>        I will close by saying how pleased I am to be associated with a
>group that so readily and generously responded to this thread.

Glad to see everyone on track. I do the opposite of what many have
suggested. Instead of speeding up, I slow down. After pasting the endpapers
(and this goes for free pastedowns on laced in boards with cloth/leather
hinges, made endsheets on French-style leather hinges, and cased-in folded
endsheets) I wait for the paper to curl and uncurl, placing it down when it
is relaxed. If it's a dry day I sometimes need to double paste. If the
endsheet expands too much I trim it after it's dry. I use flour paste
(Hecker's unbleached). If it's a case binding, I add a bit of pva or
pva/flour mix in the hinge area, adhering the mull (super, crash) to the
paper and the tapes (if any). It adds flexibility and strength to the paper
in the hinge, and prevents lifting at the board edge. But that's after I
paste the whole sheet, so there is fairly uniform expansion.  If I know the
paper well and can predict, I trim it in advance. Trimming when dry is easy
with flour paste, as a damp Q-tip along the trim area releases it cleanly.

If I'm doing an edition and using a potdevin or similar glue machine, I may
use a resin industrial binding adhesive which dries matte and clear, and
glue up the case instead of the endsheets, as one posting in this thread
suggested. The casing in is then done rapidly, and the books need about a
half minute in the press (unless you have a book smasher, which does it as a
nipping operation in a fraction of a second). All depends on how much
pressure your press has. A 30-ton press is one thing, and a tabletop book
press is another. Even on a tabletop press you can nip the book, take it out
and check your endsheets are straight and adjust if necessary before the
paste dries, and replace it in the press for a minute or so. That will
insure adhesion, and books can be removed and stacked under a couple of
bricks or a cement block. This method enables a small bindery with modest
equipment to do rapid edition work as a production line with several people.
You can easily make 100 books a day this way. If you don't have a glue
machine a 3" foam paint roller does a decent job.

If it's a damp day and nothing's drying, blotters in between the endsheets
helps. In any event, if moisture migration is a problem, I avoid wax paper
and have stacks of plastic sheets (Mylar or similar) which I insert between
the endsheets when pressing. If you don't leave the book in the press until
it's dry there is a danger of cockling the book pages. Also, this must be
done if the book is printed or illustrated with water-soluble media
(ink-jet, watercolor, some inks).


[Subject index] [Index for current month] [Table of Contents] [Search]