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base-64-decoded message's text
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: base-64-decoded message's text
- From: Al Rubottom <alrub@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 20 Dec 1997 11:29:16 -0800
- Message-id: <199712201928.LAA10248@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "The Book Arts: binding, typography, collecting" <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
The contents of the base-64-encoded message that was
recently sent to the list is included below. FYI: I decoded it
very quickly and easily using a decoder utility called
InterCode [on Win 3.1 !], which is available from the usual
shareware sites [shareware.com, et al., or simply search for
the name]. I confess I haven't registered my copy -- I've used
it maybe 2-3x, and I don't feel that merits the $28 reg. fee.
Many other such utilities, freeware, shareware or commercial
programs, are available if you look around. Some "know how"
to decode Base64 as well as the much more common MIME [PC]
or BinHex [Mac] forms of encoding. But even aWin95 PC [or a Mac]
in its decidedly finite wisdom does not automatically know how
to decode ALL forms of encoded attachments or enclosures.
A much better choice [for Win95 users] is to add a multi-purpose
viewer/decoder utility like KeyView. I bought that one -- well worth it!
[It came bundled with Eudora for an affordable $50 or so, and a
rebate of $20 on Eudora Pro made the net price for both about $30.]
Whoever sent this message did NOT need to encode the
text -- it's not so big that it required encoding [as binary
files, like graphics or programs often do -- and thus it was
probably 'human error' in choice or ignorance of a config
setting that led to this unusable-by-most posting.
Moral: DO NOT send encoded messages to the list!
Most people cannot use 'em and don't know how to decode 'em.
And while I'm at it, my pet peeve:
PLEASE include your name AND e-mail address INSIDE the
body of the message text that you post to the list. Many of
us DO NOT get your individual address from the listserv's
header info; all it shows is the listserv that forwards your msg.
Many messages cannot be replied to or queried individually
because your e-mail address is missing. If you insist on
remaining anonymous or unreachable, so be it. But DO NOT
ask for an answer or reply, especially off-list, then fail to include
your own e-mail address! grrrrr....
The intended message read [name/identity/address of poster unknown]:
-- text of decoded message follows --
Another suggestion for putting etchings into a book.
I have used this as a way of binding single sheets, and it looks good.
Fold a strong but thin paper into an accordian spine, the height
required x 3/4" (or 1" depending on the finished proportions).
Instead of attaching the etching to a fold of the accordian, insert it
between two folds, open the accordian enough to stitch through the two
folds (from the inside of the folds) and the etching, which is in
between. Reform the accordian, and the etching will be neatly held in
the spine structure. Repeat this with the next two folds and the next
etching, etc , till you have them all attached.
You need some extra paper at each end of the accordian to attach the
covers to, at least twice the width you have made the accordian folds.
The next step is to bind the spine edge of the accordian. You can sew
them using two tapes (or more if necessary). Decide where to place the
tapes and the other sewing stations, so that they will form a pattern
across the spine. Have a kettle stitch at each end. Take the thread
inside the fold and emerge to go outside the tape, then inside to the
next sewing station, where the thread will lie along the outside of the
spine fold. Have two or three of these exposed stretches of thread ,
before the other tape.Finish with a kettle.
Next step will be the same, except that you will take the needle round
the long thread showing along the previous spine fold, at each of the
two or three places they occur on the first fold. Repeat this just in
the same way that you bind a traditional book.
The cover boards should have the outside covering done already and the
edges turned in.
Take the tapes round the outside of the boards to a distance that
suits, eg. 1 1/2", then make a slot in the cover to thread the ends of
the tapes to the inside of the covers.
At this stage you need to attach the front and back ends of the
accordian spine to the inside of the covers. This is the time to deal
with the ends of the sewing threads by glueing them in between the cover
boards and the paper.
Then you can thread the tapes through the cover boards and glue them
on the inside only. After all this is done, you line the inside of the
I hope you can follow this, If you have a Fax I could send diagrams to
answer any queries, but I'm not so good on the computer that I can do
diagrams on it yet!! Good Luck
Elizabeth SteinerBbroffgold wrote:
> I am looking for an acceptable way to bind 10 etchings into a book format so
> the finished product looks like a traditionally bound book with a spine. (not
> open spined) When I fold the printmaking paper it gives me a VERY thick fold.
> Aside from tipping in individual papers to an accordian, I'm blocked on what
> else to try.
> Could anyone give me any suggestions?
-- end of decoded text --
Al Rubottom /\ alrubottom@xxxxxxxxxxx
tel: 619.292.9998 /\ fax: 619.541.2260