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Metal Binding Replies
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Metal Binding Replies
- From: Nicholas Yeager <artifex@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 17:38:02 -0400
- Message-id: <199804212135.OAA17608@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.edu>
- Sender: "Book_Arts-L: On the web at http://www.dreamscape.com/pdverhey" <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
There were seven responses to my metal notes, and so, I'll try to respond
to everyone in one public post with more info.
If you're looking for metal, tools and books about jewelry & smithing, you
should know about a mail-order & walk-in store here in Manhattan:
Metalliferous * 34 W. 46th St., 2nd Fl. * NY, NY 10036 *(212) 944-0644.
They sell Jax products as well - a line of patina chemicals that are
pre-mixed for specific effects on differing metals. Pat, if you don't want
to collect your urine for an edition of 500 metal bindings, this is a way
to go. (It would only take about a gallon - that's about 8 - 10 excretions
- for all those covers because you can re-use the liquid).
Ed Hutchins' mention of Kaneshige's book is useful and I've just spoken to
her. It's still available at the price quoted. She is publishing On-Demand
and will be making some up this weekend. She describes many techniques that
I didn't talk about - making spiral bindings with metal, and rivetting. She
provides samples too, so it sounds like a deal. Reed Bowman's comments are
quite clear and I suggest you follow them closely. Concrete explosions are
no fun and can screw up the results of your patterning of thin metal. And
he's right about the patina Bible: "The Colouring, Bronzing, and Patination
of Metals" if you get into this, you'll want to have it on hand.
Now, I'm going to be a little devilish and ask Pamela Moore, a talented
lurker living in Barcelona to share some of her secrets with the List. You
can see her work on the BAL webpage, and see how she manipulates metal.
A couple of people asked about the wedding albums and talked about lack of
knowledge or skill with this. I'm going to bust myself on this - I don't
have any training in metalsmithing - and I usually just try something out
till I get something that works for me. If you don't know the rules, you
don't know when you're breaking them! It's taken me a number of years to
loosen up about my binding and "allow" myself to do things the way I want
to rather than the "proper" way.
As for the wedding albums - These aren't the first full-board (as opposed
to full-bore) metal bindings I've done, but they are the first wedding
albums like this. I run a custom bindery in NYC and I take in all kinds of
edition, one-of-a-kind and weird book projects. I design a solution for the
client that fits their needs and budget, and do a lot of corporate, ad, and
presentation work. So, this client wanted her books to be all-metal.
The concern about the corners is important, and I've solved it a couple of
ways. The easiest is the lay on the caveat that this book has teeth - in
the instance of these wedding albums, I'm cautioning them not to throw the
12" X 12" X 3" books around and I don't think they will.
Another way, is to do a hidden leather or vellum corner, as is done on
paper case binding - with the metal coming right to the edge, but not being
turned-in at the corners. This allows a softer breakpoint if someone jabs
their hand into the corner of the binding. You can color the leather or
vellum to resemble your metal, and it'll diminish the fact that you've got
two different materials at that point.
I don't want to test the List's mettle for this subject so I'll close now.
Nicholas G. Yeager 51 Warren St.#2 NY, NY 10007 212.346.9609