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Re: "Perfect" replacements for "perfect" bindings.



Save yourself a step. Make your endsheets and when you jog up the text
block in the press to glue put you endsheets at the front and back. That
way you can do all the gluing in one operation. Since the top/bottom of
the endsheets will be the pastedown it'll also help keep your text block
cleaner. I also put the mull/crash/muslin... on at the same time and make
sure it's nicely embedded in the glue. I haven't found that "roughing" the
spine with a knife makes that much difference. With this method of gluing
you'll get about 1+mm of glue onto the paper so why bother with roughing.

When dry you can round and back. You'll have to line the spine with paper
to help it keep it's shape. The round doesn't usually keep that well. Now,
if you have a "Planax" fan glue machine $1000+ you can glue beautifully in
the round and they stay round. Remember also to let you books dry the way
you want them to. Make sure they're square and not askew. The way they dry
is the way they stay.

Peter


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Peter Verheyen, Listowner: Book_Arts-L
mailto:pdverhey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
http://www.dreamscape.com/pdverhey


On Fri, 24 Apr 1998, Eric Alstrom wrote:

> Now the pages are double-fan adhesive bound, ready for endsheets -- I just
> tip on a single folded sheet -- lining with flannel or super (or whatever)
> and then ready to recased-in or have it's original cover reattached.  The
> problem with using the original cover is that it will be slightly to big at
> the foredge, but if you are careful, it isn't too bad.  You can also trim
> the foredge, head and tail before lining.


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