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This is a reply to my own posting, inserting some afterthoughts, a reminder
to myself to let a letter sit for a while before sending it.


>>>Dear LL,
>>Some time ago I printed the Jones Bookbinding Tutorial (your first
>>reference) and tried it out. The instructions are for a non-adhesive,
>>supported long-stitch binding with a slotted spine cover. Somehow, I don't
>>think that's what Jack is looking for, but I may be wrong. I am not a
>>beginning bookbinder but I found trying to sew the stitches through the
>>slots so difficult that I quit, although I pride myself on not being a
I've saved the slotted cover and will try again when I have time. I think
I've figured out a way to make it easier.

>>I also printed out Sheila Summers' Basic Bookbinding Instructions (your
>>second reference) and have some comments:
>>1. If you follow her instructions for folding 8 1/2" x 11" paper the grain
>>will be in the wrong direction.

Pages will not turn easily, for one thing.

>>2. Anyone buying "craft glue" might choose Elmer's (to be avoided), using
>>it straight from the bottle, as she suggests. Any PVA used on paper should
>>be diluted with water, paste or methylcellulose before use.
>>3. I could not access this website now because I've changed servers.
>>may not be able to, either. He might not have Microsoft Publisher 97
>>(neither do I) or Windows 95.

4. I haven't tried using fusible webbing in bookbinding.  Somehow, I would
be wary of its permanence as a binding for a substantial book expected to
last a long time. Has anyone had experience with it?
>>I would suggest Jack go to the nearest library and check out a book on
>>basic bookbinding, Aldren Watson's HANDBOOKBINDING, for instance, and
>>follow the instructions for a case-bound book on tapes, AFTER he's read the
>>information on fundamental procedures.
>>Betty   storz@xxxxxxx
>>Betty Storz   storz@xxxxxxx
Betty Storz   storz@xxxxxxx

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