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Re: Alum Tawed Goatskin


At 06:12 AM 9/11/98 -0400, Jack C. Thompson wrote:
>You didn't mention a couple of things which can affect how well your binding
>will turn out (turn-in...).  Is the skin stiff or soft/stretchy; are you
>using oak boards?
>If the skin is stiff, you'll want to do as Peter recommends: cover the
>spine first and a little way down the board, working the skin until it is
>sticking well, or tie it up (if the text block is sewn on cord/thongs), or
>wrap it with cloth tape/elastic bandage to keep the back in place.  On the
>following day damp out the unattached leather, paste it out and continue
>If the skin is stretchy, be careful and don't over stretch it over the
>spine/joints, just pat it down, lay a sheet of paper over the spine and
>bone it down gently every now and then.
>If you are covering oak boards keep your damp hands OFF the oak or you'll
>likely end up with *pepper* spots on your clean, white leather.  Tannic
>acid from the oak plus moisture/sweat from your hands will make ink.
>Dorothy was correct as far as she went.  Keep the bench and tools clean,
>yes.  And also wash your hands well and dry them well before going to work
>on the skin.  And if your hands get a little dirty while working covering
>the book take a break and wash them again.  I keep a spray bottle of water
>by the bench and sometimes just spray my hands and tools, wipe them on a
>clean towel, and continue covering.
>Depending on what you're used to covering with, you may want to experiment
>a little with how thick/thin the paste should be for this skin.
>Jack C. Thompson
>Thompson Conservation Lab.
>7549 N. Fenwick
>Portland, OR  97217
>503/735-3942  (voice/fax)

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