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Re: Help with a multiple signature binding?
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Subject: Re: Help with a multiple signature binding?
- From: "Peter D. Verheyen" <pdverhey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 17:24:14 -0400
- In-reply-to: <199809142035.QAA27676@ultra1.dreamscape.com>
- Message-id: <199809142123.OAA17008@SUL-Server-2.Stanford.EDU>
- Sender: "Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at http://www.dreamscape.com/pdverhey" <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
A method close to what is described here is on the web at the URL in my sig
file, or this message header. Just go to the Links page, then Tutorials.
It'll be described as "German Case (Bradel) Binding." This is a great
technique for doing case bindings. One of the advantages. You'll know the
cover fits well before you cover with cloth, paper... It's also described
in Books, Boxes, and Portfolios by Franz Zeier and in a CBBAG Newsletter
article by Dr. Brian Roberts. It's a great technique which lends itself to
many variations once you get it down. The Zeier book is great. Keith Smith
/ Fred Jordan's new book is wonderful as well, especially in describing
traditional, multi-section bindings without a lot of tools...
About Tyvek. It's a great material, but I found I didn't like using it
across joints because it has a tendency to split apart in the center. Not
tear mind you but split. Found it most annoying while doing a full vellum
binding. I like to use Mohawk Superfine / Permalife 80# text weight paper.
Remember. We use cloth/mull on the spine, cloth on the cover... tapes.
Lot's of redundencies. I've made very elegant paper cover bindings using
only a thin layer of mull on the spine which hold up great. Yes, one can
rip off the covers, but that's not normal use. I
At 04:35 PM 9/14/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Something I use with difficult hinges is Tyvek. This is a very thin plastic
>material most familiar as those plastic envelopes the post office has for its
>priority mail. You can also find these envelopes (mostly white with little
>printing) at stationary stores. Many art supply stores sell sheets of tyvek.
>If I were covering a book with hand made paper, I would first join the front
>and back boards to the spine board with a strip of tyvek. The strip of tyvek
>should be the same height as your cover and about one inch bigger than the
>spine board and the "gap" between the boards -- in this case, about one and a
>half or two inches wide. Glue (use PVA) the tyvek to the outside of the spine
>board and the front and back boards leaving the gap and thus joining the
>of the case. Then just cover your case as usual. The tyvek is covered on the
>outside by the hand made paper and it so thin it should not leave much of a
>mark visible under the paper you used to cover the case. On the inside the
>tyvek is covered by the boards and the end papers glued to the inside of the
>case. Patty Grass
>> In schoen gebundenen Buechern blaettert man gern. <<
Peter D. Verheyen