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Re: a question about type -Reply

I suppose I should my two bits.

I've used (and paid for it) Lacquer Thinner extensively. It has a longer
evaporation rate than Acetone that allows for more control through
fingerpainting and pressure embossing (you can take - say type,
woodblocks - and use the pressure to affect the transfer). Pre-Clean Air
Act solvent of course work the best for very bad reasons; I've found
them at estate sales, "third world" hardware stores, toxic dumps.
Wintergreen Oil will allow a transfer on top of a solvent transfer. As the
surface mechanics of two differ as to what is going on with the
polymers, it's possible to set up reflective/refractive effects not unlike oil
painting/varnish. But be warned the expansion/contraction temp. effects
differ thus leading to internal vice (it will flake someday) Wintergreen Oil
is a neurotoxin that absorbs through the skin; in fact it might be still
marketed for arthritis at some less than intelligent drugstores. It actually
destroys neuron clusters.

copiers -

most manufactures maintain different toner chemistry to maintain supply
market share. The rule generally is that the lower the fuser temperature,
the greater the amount of toner transfer. You can disable fusers or reset
them for lower tempetures. Don't ask a tech how to do it. Color copier
have to maintain color calibration for the CMYK thus they run hotter and
use smaller particles to absorb the
heat better.

 Ratings Color :  1) Kodak Coloredge  2) Canon Color 3) Xerox Majestic
4)Xerox 3110 (I think) 70's/80's color machine
Ratings B/w 1) Graphic Zoomer 2) Xerox 9500 3)Oce blueprint

I have done transfers onto lead, copper, glass, skins - most any
non-porous surface is possible. By disableing the fuser, the metaphor of
tibetian sand paintings comes to mind.

Unfortunately the particle technology of the recent digitals works against
doing transfers. Get to know and love your local bad old machines.

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