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Re: Photocopying photos

Here is the best way I have found to get the covers to lie flat against the
book block of a perfect-bound book..
Make a book block, with end papers bound in. Score and fold the cover so that
there is room for the book block to slide in.
Put a thin strip of PVA parallel to the spine, and 1/4" away from it. Do this
on both the front and the back end paper. Press the book(s) with a brick on top
for an hour or so. Then trim the book(s).
        This method not only gives you flat-lying covers, but it also frees up
the spine and makes the book more likely to open without mousetrapping. It
works like magic.
        If I am doing only two or three books, I just use a squeeze bottle of
PVA to lay down the strip of glue. If I am doing more copies, I use a 1/4" wide
paint-striping tool filled with PVA. This paint striping tool is available from
Howards Art Supplies, 1256 Dual Highway, Hagerstown, MD 21742, 1-800-899-5410,

.At 01:03 PM 6/1/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>Thanks again to all those who responded to my earlier plea for help in getting
>decent quality photocopies.
>Here's what I ended up doing: I scanned in the photos at 300dpi, grayscaling
>modern color photos and adding a newspaper descreen (an option in the settings
>box on ScanWizard). If I need them to be significantly bigger, I scanned them
>in at more than 100%, otherwise I just resized for placement in
>Though I experimented with contrast and brightness, I ended up leaving the
>photos alone because how it looked on the screen was different from how it
>looked printed which I figured would be different from how it would look
>copied. Although, for line art I did use Auto Levels (makes the lightest area
>white, the darkest black, and spreads the rest on the spectrum between). Works
>As for copying, I planned to take the advice of many of you and try different
>brands and models of copiers. Unfortunately, on campus we have all Lanier (not
>good) copiers and almost all are the same model. The only copying service
>we have around is a very small Mailboxes, Etc. which would have had difficulty
>filling our order in the short time frame (no independent local copier
>in the area). So we took a trip to Annapolis to a giant Kinkos to try their
>Docutech, as Steve Barton had suggested. I asked on the phone if it wasn't
>basically a computer hooked up to a copier. Well yes, basically, was the
>I received.
>Got there and found out things were slightly more complex. First off, he
>me the "wrong" price. Second, the Docutech (sp?) was for color coping and cost
>significantly more; what I wanted was the b&w Docu40 (sp?). And finally, no,
>their Docu40 was not networked (the right question to ask: "Is it
>What they would have to do is print it out, then scan the hard copy into the
>Docu machine and then copy. Looked horrible, the print outs came out way too
>We ended up going with a place in New Jersey called Alphagraphics, which had a
>networked machine (Not sure what the machine is called; there are others out
>there besides Xerox's Docues. A friend of mine recently saw a commercial for
>one put out by Canon). I put everything--the PageMaker file, all linked files,
>and the fonts used--on a zip disk, and all went smoothly (In fact, they said
>was the smoothest job they'd ever had!). About 14,500 impressions on a 32#
>slightly glossy white paper for a thousand dollars. Slightly cheaper I think
>than Kinkos.
>How's it look? Damn good for a photocopy. Big highlights make people look a
>little spooky because they photocopy white, but who's to say these people
>look spooky in real life. Basically quality-wise they look about the same as
>the b&w photos printed on a web press for our college catalog.
>So I letterpressed some covers and perfect bound them (any tips on how to get
>the cover to lay flat against the spine of the text block? I think if I do
>again I'll bind them differently.)
>And the people who commissioned the job are thrilled with how it turned out
>say they're sure it's worth what I'm charging.
>Naw, it's worth more ;)
>Thanks again!

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