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Re: BOOK_ARTS-L Digest - 6 Sep 1999 to 7 Sep 1999

Book Life in Paris...there are several "artist's books" galleries in the=20
little medieval streets near Notre Dame on the Left Bank of the Seine... als=
dozens or maybe hundreds of bookshops of all sorts plus the kiosks along the=20
banks of the river as well. On the Blvd. St. Germain near the Odeon metro=20
stop (adjacent to the Deux Magots cafe) is Nicaise, which specializes in=20
artist's books. One of my favorites, on the Rue St. Andr=E9 des Arts, is=20
Galerie Kieffer, which has many artist's books published by the bookshop.=20
This particular one was founded by Rene Kieffer, a well-known French=20
bookbinder and publisher during the 20's. His son ran the shop until his=20
death a few years ago. I have found many lovely books with pochoir=20
illustrations and fabulous etchings there, as well as fine typography. Many=20
of these are available in unbound, folded sheets. They gave a small gallery=20
inside which usually has exhibitions ongoing.

You might want to visit RELMA at 6, rue Danton for bookbinding supplies and=20
decorated papers. Monsieur Olivier speaks English and is very patient and=20
helpful. There is also Jullien, the specialist in beautiful bookbinding=20
leather, on the Blvd. St. Marcel. Monsieur Tafani is the manager and speaks=20
English (in the event that you don't speak French). These are both worth a=20
visit just for the wealth of supplies and meeting the wonderful people who=20
work there. These two shops are located in the Quartier Latin as well and=20
some blocks apart. The nearest metro is St. Michel or Cluny. There is a=20
wonderful knife shop (which makes French paring knives) called Coutellerie=20
Pajon on the street going uphill from the Maubert-Mutualit=E9 metro,  also n=
Jullien. Wear good walking shoes!=20

And while you're there in the neighborhood, do visit the Mus=E9e Cluny - a=20
museum of medieval art and artifacts. There is a book of hours with the page=
enclosed in glass that you can page through and examine closely. The museum=20
is surrounded by the excavation of Roman thermal baths, right off the busy=20
Blvd. St. Germain. My favorite caf=E9 there is the Caf=E9 Cluny. Go upstairs =
the brown velvet banquettes and have a view of the life of Paris in the=20
streets below as you sip an expensive (and worth it) cafe cr=E8me.=20

There are a couple of very interesting paper stores in the region of the=20
Mairie (the city hall of Paris). One is Papier + and another is called=20
Kimonaya. Do also be sure to visit the many museums with collections of=20
bookbindings - Mus=E9e Historique du Ville de Paris, Biblioth=E8que Forny, C=
Pompidou, too many to mention.

In my old neighborhood, Montparnasse, there is Kickshaw's, a small printing=20
atelier. You'll have to look up their address in the phone book. Across the=20
street from my former apartment at 48, rue du Montparnasse is Imprimerie=20
Mourlot, an extremely well-known lithography studio. You should peek in and=20
ask Mme. Mourlot if it is possible to visit. She publishes artist's books -=20
the French kind. The street is full of tiny, wonderful, atmospheric real=20
Breton creperies- perfect for a light meal. If you head up away from the=20
Boulevard Montparnasse, you might want to visit the Cimitiere Montparnasse=20
where Samuel Beckett and several other famous personages are buried. Walk,=20
walk, walk! There is so much to see....

It's useful to buy a copy of Pariscope at any news kiosk. Also pick up a=20
(free) copy of Paris Free Voice (printed in English); both have listing of=20
happenings, exhibits, free concerts in the small churches. I know the Free=20
Voice is available at Shakespeare & Company, the shop started by Silvia=20
Beach, who, as we all know, was the woman bookseller brave enough to publish=20
James Joyce's Ulysees...the bookshop is on the left bank of the Seine, facin=
Notre Dame...and that takes you back to the beginning.

Enjoy your trip...
Paula Marie Gourley


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