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Re: Leather Paring



Richard, thank you for your advice. What I had in mind is a place where I might send the skin
to be machined pared instead of working with the spoke shave. I'm talking about a 60 by 40 cm
piece, and I might have three more (larger) books to be bound for the same client, who likes
his skins very thin.....

Uri

Richard Minsky wrote:

> Depending on how you do your leather binsing, a spokeshave (for overall paring) or a kinfe
> (for edge paring or headcap paring) will do. When I do (traditional laced-in board)
> leather binding, I use a modified French knife and pare only the areas by the endcaps. The
> rest of the leather remains full thickness. It makes a very durable binding with neat
> endcaps.
>
> I sometimes use this method for case-binding, and fill in the boards between the turn-ins
> with with 2-ply museum  board. I do a hollow back case with slits at the head and tail of
> the hollow for the turn-ins, and leave enough extra leather out to form endcaps. That way
> I get a case binding with a french groove that has endcaps like a real (laced-in) binding.
>
> --
>
>  Richard
>  http://www.minsky.com
>  http://www.centerforbookarts.org
>
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--

Uri Kolodni
Bookbinding & Restoration
6 Hovevey Zion St.
63148 Tel Aviv
Israel

tl: +972 3 629 1447
fx: +972 3 602 0668
mailto:kolodni@actcom.co.il

             ***********************************************
            BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
      For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
            resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:
                      <http://www.philobiblon.com>

                          To unsubscribe send:
                            UNSUB Book_Arts-L
                           ALL COMMANDS GO TO:
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