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Re: Heat and PVA

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theresa wrote:

>I have never felt I achieved a good bond using a tacking iron to fix
>spot that didn't glue down properly. If others on the list have had
>success with this I would be interested in suggestions.

I always have success using heat with PVA. I used to use Elvace 1874,
which is very heat friendly, and now use Jade. In a recent post to
this list I indicated that I use PVA as a heat laminating adhesive to
back delicate cloth with paper to make it suitable for use as a
covering material.

Perhaps you are trying to use heat to reactivate a "conservation
mixture" of PVA with methyl cellulose or flour paste (or some other
starch). If you mix the PVA like that it loses its heat sealing
capability.  A few drops of water will make PVA flow better. If you
are using a roller, keep a spray bottle of water handy and
occasionally spray the surface of your rioller pan (I use a plate) so
it doesn't get too thick by evaporation or skin over. The spray
bottles that household cleaners come in work very well.

I believe that "Jade" has been reformulated, becuase it heat seals
much better than it used to, and also stays tacky for much longer.
That has changed the way I work with it. Now I apply it with a roller,
wait until it "sets up" (just turns transparent and loses its white
appearance) and then apply it to the work and put the work in a press
for a few seconds. This procedure results in less warping with no
adhesive squeezeout. It is a very high tack method, however, and has
no slip. That means that it does not reposition once laid down.

If I need to reposition or move the material around while gluing, I
either use the PVA wet or I let it dry completely and then iron it on.


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