[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: [BKARTS] Is fairy dust required in making adhesive lay-flat bindings?
- To: BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU
- Subject: Re: [BKARTS] Is fairy dust required in making adhesive lay-flat bindings?
- From: Nigel Hart <bibliopegus_@HOTMAIL.COM>
- Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 17:26:39 -0400
- Message-ID: <F120V9s8zvivee6v3xk00004d3e@hotmail.com>
- Sender: "Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at http://www.philobiblon.com" <BOOK_ARTS-L@LISTSERV.SYR.EDU>
>From: Ben Wiens <ben@BENWIENS.COM>
>Reply-To: "Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at http://www.philobiblon.com"
>Subject: [BKARTS] Is fairy dust required in making adhesive lay-flat
>Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 11:36:53 -0700
>PETE JERMANN'S LAY-FLAT ARTICLE
>This Sunday I came home from a bicycle club supper barbeque and decided to
>turn on my computer. I found Pete Jermann had just posted his article
>"Flexible Strength" http://www.temperproductions.com/flexible_strength.htm,
>a discussion of lay-flat binding theory. After months of studying binding
>methods for my own books, this is the first article I have seen that
>literally zooms in to the details of the lay-flat binding.
>LEG-HOLD TRAP BINDINGS
>Also the university library where Pete worked for in the past was lucky I
>think. The library's in my city mostly like to staple together books or
>them so heavily that it is almost impossible to even read them. I would
>to introduce yet another definition for these latter bindings as leg-hold
>trap bindings. I guess this is a good way to protect the contents of the
>books as no one even wants to read them...and read with a buddy in case one
>of these snaps shut.
>DO I NEED TO USE FAIRY DUST?
>Armed with some more explicit information from Pete's article, I made
>another PVA lay-flat adhesive bound book before I hit the sack. I checked
>the book the next day and it was a disaster. Roughly 30% of the pages are
>falling out. This is not much different than all adhesive bound books I
>tried making by all kinds of methods and using various adhesives such as
>thermal hot melt glues and cold glues. Information I have read makes it
>sound easy to make an adhesive bound book, like there is nothing to it. I
>not a klutz with my hands as I have done fine woodworking, made a beautiful
>musical instrument, and done intricate machining. I used various jigs not
>unlike I have seen in articles and books. Now I am wondering if I need to
>say a certain kind of prayer before making each book, or perhaps
>are not telling me that I have to sprinkle fairy dust on each and every
>binding I make.
>I have bought, borrowed, and downloaded many articles and books on
>bookbinding. I made several adhesive bound books with various methods, all
>paper in the tests was porous copy paper with paper grain parallel to
>I jogged the pages to line up the binding edge in my book clamp. I sanded
>the edges, removed the dust and observed under a powerful magnifying glass
>that all page edges were even as far as I could tell but had rough edges. I
>used commercial quality PVA and hot melt glue in my tests. I also tested
>commercially made books.
>(1) PVA vigorous brushing...in the latest book I clamped the book block
>none sticking past clamp bar. I applied undiluted PVA glue with vigorous
>brushing on spine five times, then glued on bookbinders scrim. Allowed to
>dry with binding end of book block inverted. About 30% of pages either fell
>out or were easy to tear off. Many sections of the book block with pages
>that seemed well adhered could be torn apart.
>(2) PVA double fan glued...stuck 3 inches of the book block past the clamp
>bar. I applied medium coat of undiluted PVA glue with sponge brush during
>fanning book block over 90 degrees bend first one way then another coat
>while fanning the other way, while applying pressure in a way to keep pages
>even. Allowed to dry with binding end of book block inverted. Pulled book
>block back and clamped not too tight near edge of binding. When dry, many
>sections of pages were not glued at all and some pages pulled out.
>(3) PVA double stage application...clamped book block with none sticking
>past clamp bar. I applied two coats of PVA adhesive, first thinned 3 :1
>undiluted, one hour apart and applied thin paper for binding reinforcement.
>At first book appeared to be wonderfully bound. Did repeated subway test in
>which the book block is doubled back on itself and also did book whip test
>by holding one half of book while whipping the free book pages open and
>closed vigorously. Many pages started popping off the binding glue and
>gradually 30% of pages fell out.
>(4) Hot melt thermal binding...used two types of specialty bookbinders EVA
>hot melt adhesive. Used book clamp over a metal plate on hot plate at
>300-350 deg F. Used various thickness of hot melt. Appeared to be bound
>evenly. I could pull many of the pages apart with not much trouble. The hot
>melt appears very weak and stringy.
>(5) Commercial thermal binding...went to a dealer for thermal binding
>machines. Person produced a sample lay-flat book on latest expensive model
>of machine. Many pages appeared to be solidly bound, but there were gaps
>between several of the pages and this makes the book feel like it had
>in the spine.
>(6) PUR bound coated stock...received sample of polyurethane bound lay-flat
>book from local bindery. Sample had coated stock regular thickness pages.
>Claimed that polyurethane adhesive made super strong book even with coated
>stock. Did repeated subway test in which the book block is doubled back on
>itself and also did book whip test by holding one half of book while
>whipping the free book pages open and closed vigorously. Many pages started
>popping off the binding glue and it appeared that there was little
>penetration to the fibers in places even though knurling of page edges was
>(7) PUR porous stock...had 1992 Autodesk computer software manual which I
>sure must be a PUR lay-flat binding as it doesn't melt and is not soft like
>my PVA bound books. Did repeated subway test in which the book block is
>doubled back on itself and also did book whip test by holding one half of
>book while whipping the free book pages wide open and closed vigorously.
>Book seems to handle this kind of abuse quite well. Pages seem to be glued
>very well and have a very slight arc when opened but glue line is visible
>and shows no visible milling.
>(1) The PVA adhesive I have which I got from a commercial bookbinder seems
>to be extremely weak as I can tear apart pages with ease even when I
>some glue on edges of the paper. Run a fingernail over a spine with PVA
>exposed, it feels mushy soft and ready to tear.
>(2) I have never seen a thermally bound book with even gluing of each page,
>there always seem to be gaps between some pages. Run a fingernail over a
>spine with hot melt exposed. The adhesive feels very inflexible more like
>wax than rubber or plastic.
>(3) PUR or polyurethane adhesive appears to be super tough compared to PVA
>and hot melt glue. It seems almost impossible to tear apart pages when the
>glue has penetrated. Run a fingernail over a spine with PUR exposed. The
>glue feels very durable like regular plastic.
>(1) Why are my experiences with PVA adhesive or hot melt adhesives
>than all the articles I read?
>(2) Are the page gaps in thermal hot melt binding due to typical poor
>clamping of book blocks?
>(3) Why isn't PUR used more in short run bookbinding or even library
>if it is so strong? I was told recently by a bookbinding expert that while
>it is trickier to work with than hot melt or PVA it is even possible to do
>short run bookbinding with it. As long as temperatures are kept below
>limits no toxic fumes are created I'm told. Does anyone have any experience
>with PUR used for short run bookbinding?
>Ben Wiens Energy Science Inc.
>8-1200 Brunette Ave. Coquitlam BC V3K1G3 Canada
>Tel: 604-520-6321 8am-10 pm Pacific Standard Time
>Energy Website: www.benwiens.com
> BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
> For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
> resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:
> Archive maintained and suppported by Conservation OnLine
Hello Ben, Is the PVA actually padding glue? This is made so
individual leaves may be torn from a pad without too much effort.
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:
Archive maintained and suppported by Conservation OnLine