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Re: [BKARTS] Seeking a source for thermal binding adhesive (the type used in Coverbind machines)

You can buy hotmelt glue in sheets which are scored every 1/8 inch from Planax
North America. The cost is about $10 for a sheet about 8" x 10" x about 1/32
    Much cheaper, and equally satisfactory if you are doing any quantity is to
buy or borrow a hot glue gun. The glue for these guns comes in three
temperature ranges, low, medium, and high. Do not use the low temperature glue
because your thermal binding machine will make this glue so liquid that it may
strike through and stain the cover of your book. High or medium temperature
glue work well. Stack up the book(s) as if you were going to apply padding
compound. Run strips of hot glue perpendicular to the spine, about 3/8 inch
apart. Cut the book blocks apart, insert in the cover(s), and put in the
thermal binding machine.
    If you want to save the cost of the thermal binding machine, an electric
griddle or frying pan is perfectly satisfactory. Set it at 350 degrees
Fahrenheit. Make a framework of hardwood or fir (not pine) to hold the book(s)
upright, with the spine in contact with the hot platen. The heat will
penetrate the cover in about ten seconds and the pages will lower themselves
into the cover about 1/32 of an inch. Remove the hot book(s) and let them cool
for two to five minutes while they rest on their spine.
     If you print your own covers, ink-jet or Riso or letterpress work fine.
If you use laser printing on the spine, put release paper between the cover
and the hot platen. The toner melts and sets off on the next book unless you
separate it from the hot platen.
    I have perfect-bound hundreds of books of the type you describe using the
methods described above.
    I usually use twenty-four pound office paper which is designed for both
laser print and inkjet. Thinner paper of high opacity is more expensive.
    By all means make sure that the grain of the paper runs parallel to the
spine of the book. Paper of the type sold for office use is almost all "grain
long," so your 11 x 17 inch sheets cut in two to make a letter-size book would
have the grain running the wrong way. To change the direction of the grain,
get paper twice as large and cut it in half.
    If you want more information, I would be happy to supply it.

>===== Original Message From "Book_Arts-L: READ THE FAQ at
http://www.philobiblon.com";              <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> =====
>Please forgive me if I use the wrong terminology in asking these two
>Question 1.
>Does anyone know of a source for the solid plastic (?) adhesive that can be
used with a heating device (such as a Coverbind machine) to create a
perfectbound binding?
>I am working on a project to print and bind approximately 250 lectures into
16 volumes of about 150 sheets (300 pages) each. I need to produce five copies
of each volume. I have access to a high-speed photocopier that can receive my
files over a server and print the materials double-sided on 8.5 x 11 paper, so
fortunately printing the 24,000 pages is achievable, and I only have to pay
for the paper, not the use of the machine. (After the books are bound, I plan
to find someone who will trim one side so that the final book is about 8.5 x
6). I also have an old Coverbind thermal binding machine and a few old
Coverbind covers - I've scavenged the coverstock for the white plastic (?)
strips of adhesive and inserted one into the spine of my own cover to make a
dummy book. Then I heated the spine in the Coverbind machine and the result
seemed acceptable.
>The problem is I don't have any more covers and Coverbind only sells their
own covers, which are unacceptable. I'd like to find a supplier for a solid
adhesive that can be cut to the correct spine dimensions to bind my books in
the Coverbind thermal binding machine.
>If anyone is wondering what a Coverbind machine is, the website is
www.coverbind.com, but they do not explain there what the material is that
they use in their binding.
>Question 2.
>I would welcome anyone's comments about my intended methods of approaching
this project, since I really know very little about bookbinding. I've printed
and assembled a few books (my friend's unpublished novels) by hand using laser
and inkjet printers and the old Coverbind, that's all.
>The resulting books will be used rather frequently, perhaps even daily. I
know that perfect binding is probably not the best choice. If I had unlimited
time and funds, I'd probably print the pages myself on 11 x17 double-sided
sheets using an Epson 1280 inkjet and send them out to be folded, trimmed and
then hand-sewn and case bound. But I imagine that would be quite expensive.
>I would welcome especially recommendations on the best paper to use in a
photocopier (Canon imageRUNNER 5000i) when printing double-sided, where the
paper is passed through the heated section not once but twice.
>Thank you very much for your assistance.
>Jim Schaeffer, Jr.
>25 Law Drive
>Fairfield, NJ 07004
>Telephone: 973.575.9114 extension 115
>Fax: 973-575-0013
>Email: web@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>             ***********************************************
>            BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
>      For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
>            resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:
>                      <http://www.philobiblon.com>
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Rupert N. Evans
May 1-October 31: 101 W Windsor Rd. #4107, Urbana, IL 61802-6697;
November 1-April 30: 501-391 S LaPosada Circle, Green Valley, AZ 85614; 520-648-8365
Author of Book-On-Demand Publishing
I love to print and bind books

            BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
      For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
            resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:

        Archive maintained and suppported by Conservation OnLine

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