[Table of Contents] [Search]

[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [BKARTS] printing halftones

I would concur on all that, with the addition of being sure your rollers are
in perfect condition. Paper is very important. A smooth sheet is a must, and
coated is even better. We're lucky nowadays to have so many choices with
nice matte coatings. Also, there are ways of preparing the image that can
help, too. There are SO many factors when trying to do halftones; it's one
of the reasons that offset was considered far superior to letterpress early
on. Good luck!

Katie Harper

on 6/11/03 1:05 PM, Hal Truschke at fineptg@xxxxxxxxxx wrote:

> Kerri,
> I would suggest asking your magnesium die vendor about their capabilities in
> this area. Mine says that 110-120 line screen is their limit. You must
> consider the type of paper that you're printing on as well--course surfaced
> papers require a larger dot and I've gone as low as 60-80 line screens on
> some funky handmade sheets. Sending a sheet to your die vendor could be
> helpful in choosing the right screen density.
> As you probably know, the mag dies are much more limited in their ability to
> reproduce fine dot patterns compared to polymer. Although those magnetic
> bases are expensive (reasonably so, in consideration of what is involved in
> making them), there are some alternative ways to mount poly plates. I bought
> a piece of steel and had it ground down at a machine shop and then affixed
> polymer material (the kind without steel backing) onto it with 2-sided
> tape--works great and the plate doesn't move at all on the base. I have also
> taken a piece of MDX wood material, available at Home Depot or similar
> stores and had a friend plane it down for a base--this is the cheapest way
> to go and the results can be very good. In either case, you have to do a
> little math to ensure that the sum thickness of all (poly material, tape,
> and steel or wood base) equals type-high--exactly.
> On the press make sure that roller contact is as perfect as possible, run
> slow, and keep your ink on the thin side using a tack reducer if necessary.
> All this assumes that your rollers are in great shape. I'd choose to run it
> on the Universal rather than the C & P.
> Hope this helps. --h
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kerri Sancomb" <kerri@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <BOOK_ARTS-L@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 8:03 AM
> Subject: printing halftones
>> Hi All,
>> I am looking for advice on printing halftones successfully. I print on
> both
>> a Universal I Vandercook and a C & P platen press. We print from magnesium
>> plates still as the magnetic base for polymer plates is still very much
>> outside our budget. I am trying to discover what the finest res halftone I
>> can get is minus printing nightmares. I recently printed a poster with a
>> halftone on the same plate as fairly heavy solid black areas - so I
> quickly
>> realized this was a mistake. Any other suggestions - both image and ink
>> suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>> Thanks!
>> Kerri

Katie Harper
Ars Brevis Press
Cincinnati, OH

            BOOK_ARTS-L: The listserv for all the book arts.
      For subscription information, the Archive, and other related
            resources and links go to the Book_Arts-L FAQ at:

        Archive maintained and suppported by Conservation OnLine

[Subject index] [Index for current month] [Table of Contents] [Search]