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Re: [BKARTS] tips to avoid getting glue on paper

I also use a PVA mix for endpapers and have no problems.  I use waste
paper underneath the pastedown, so that as I glue out, I do not have to
worry about getting anything at all on the flyleaf.

After gluing out I run a fingertip around the edges of the dampened
sheet, removing extra adhesive from the outermost part, before dropping
the cover.  This little maneuver protects from any "too much" glue from
oozing out during the nip in the press (which effectively attaches
pastedown to the flyleaf).  One of my teachers taught me this a long
time ago, and it works very well.  Takes just 2-3 seconds.

Eugene, OR


On Monday, February 9, 2004, at 03:01 PM, Peter D. Verheyen wrote:

I've used a PVA / Methylcellulose mix or straight PVA for this
and it works just fine. While reversibility is important in
work, I do not find that concept relevant for most new bindings,
since the paper will be damaged...  by those not experienced in
wet, weakened, paper that has been glued down.

I always use a brush, especially for the size of book mentioned. It's
I'm used to. I use the biggest brush possible and load it up with glue
above). Brush out from the center to the outside edges. The same works
a roller.

If you know the paper will curl, gently bend the corners back, before
gluing out. This way, when the paper starts to curl, it will be held
and prevented from getting glue on the flyleaf, or itself. Test with
different papers before trying on a book. Another tip is to immediately
fold the paper back on itself leaving about an inch with exposed glue.
edge should be parallel to the grain. Use that to align the paper,
rub down, and then carefully peel back the piece that you put back on
itself and smooth out. This works VERY well with paste and PVA/MC mix.
Straight PVA dries too fast, usually, even if diluted with water.
glue out the piece of material that will expand the most and allow
that to
relax.. This will avoid bubbles. Paste will cause paper to expand more
PVA. It's an adhesive worth considering. It has the very nice attribute
that messes can be gently cleaned with a damp sponge..., IF the paper /
cloth can handle it. TEST first to see how the surface reacts. Works
for leather too. Also gives you plenty of time. Just remember to either
counter-line the other side to pull the board in, or use the same
on the other side.

If the problem is with casing in (attaching the cover to the textblock)
this technique will work as well. For books with decorated edges...
insert a clean piece of UNprinted newsprint between the pastedown and
flyleaf, glue out, remove the paper and complete the casing in.

My tip, make sure the grain of the endsheet is parallel to the spine.
it's not, you've got a problem because when the paper expands it will
restrained by the spine fold and you will get wicked creases.

Board warpage is a naturally occuring event when moisture is added from
glue... You get it when covering the case in cloth, leather, .. and
when putting down the endsheet, in the opposite direction. The trick
is to
know your materials, and how much they expand (and retract when dry).
fun, measure a piece of paper when dry, then glue out and measure, then
again when dry. Try this with different materials. Let things dry
boards (use blotters if needed) and under light weight. This will help
things flatter. Ditto when casing in.

Finally, non of this is earthshaking, and all part of working with the
materials we work with. The better one learns to handle different
and how to deal with them, the better the quality of the final product.
Experiment, keep records/notes, look at manuals (they're filled with

Hope this helps.


At 05:31 PM 2/9/2004 -0500, you wrote:
PVA is not suitable for end-papers because is not reversible and
won't allow
for repositioning, and it is more prone to warping boards, etc.


Ed Stansell


Peter D. Verheyen
Bookbinder & Conservator
The Book Arts Web & Book_Arts-L Listserv

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