[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
[BKARTS] your text on edge gilding
Dear Jet,
The severity's of your problems with the Harcourt edge gilder totally
mystify me. But let's attack them one at a time and see what we can do.
First the foil; did you try only Harcourt's foil? I've not had problems with
it in the past but a bad lot is conceivable. If you have not done so try the
foil in your hotstamper just to be sure that it is working ok.
Assuming that the foil is OK then I'd next wonder about temperature setting
on the gilder. It needs to be quite high, significantly hotter than your
hotstamper setting with the same foil. Begin by cranking the temperature
adjustment to maximum and give it 10 minutes to get to temperature. If the gilder
should start smoking a bit, don't fear, its the grease between the shaft and
wheel cooking. Try the gilder as soon as any smoking starts. Practice on smooth
paper, with no polysize, which you tape to a piece of scrap binder board and
if the foil still won't transfer at maximum temperature then ask Sam to
exchange the gilder. If the machine is working then at max temperature the pigment
will transfer (too well!) but it will be hot enough to overstretch and
distort the mylar carrier so start turning down the temperature, giving it five
minutes or so to cool a bit, and retry. You want to get to a point where the
foil transfers with minimal distortion of the mylar. Using the gilder you make
one or two back and forth passes (remember that you roll forward an inch or
so, roll back, then a further inch or so, repeating this until you reach the
full length you wish to gild) and this with firm and somewhat heavy pressure.
As in using a gilding wheel you pull the gilder into your shoulder while
pressing down, legs spread enough to give you a firm and steady foundation. Move
your upper body forward over the work as you progress down a long edge.
I should have asked, the wheel is turning smoothly, yes?
If the wheel is sticking (making it want to slide not roll on the foil) then
you need to remove it, clean off any hardened grease (I use 0000 steel wool)
and regrease lightly using white lithium grease. The black grease supplied
by Harcourt (at least they used too) is not very satisfactory. It too quickly
cooks and hardens at the necessary temperature.
As to the polysize, it acts as a filler in the paper edge. I prefer to use
methyl cellulose or starch paste. But lets get the foil transferring first then
refine the niceties.
If it is convenient please feel free to telephone me this afternoon Jet. We
might do better speaking in person. All best,
James
James Tapley
Hand Bookbinder
2077 Thirteenth Street
Sarasota, FL 34237
USofA
Tel 941 366 8248
***********************************************
Spring[binding]Hath Sprung
Worldwide Springback Bind-O-Rama and Online Exhibition
Full information at <http://www.philobiblon.com>
ENTRY DEADLINE EXTENDED -- NOW October 1, 2004
Book_Arts-L FAQ and Archive at: <http://www.philobiblon.com>
***********************************************