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Re: [BKARTS] Board Slotting

Thanks, Bill.

Any comments on your experience with the technique?

Mr. Tapley has suggested that part of the reason this technique is not more common is that it is described in the literature as requiring a milling machine. For under $100, one could buy all required below, and as the Dremel is fairly ubiquitous, many of you would only require the Shaper/Router table and a cutting tip.

My Dremel is set up as follows:

Mounted  on an "under-table" router base, what Dremel calls their Shaper/Router table, in which the cutting tip sticks up from underneath the work surface. (To clarify, many stores carry only the more common Plunge Router attachment or its non-plunging precursor, in which the Dremel is mounted with collet and cutting wheel facing down and one slides the base plate along the material being cut.) A carbide cutting/shaping wheel (#542) is used, its height adjustable as board thickness requires. (I tried the more common metal cut-off wheels, but though they work, they create too much heat/friction.

A thin strip of wood roughly 1/2" high (mine is 24" long to support the book board its full length on both sides of the cutting wheel) is mounted roughly 3" from the cutting wheel. Thus when the book board is laid on the work surface, the wooden strip causes the foredge to be raised and tips the spine edge down toward the cutting wheel, creating a 5 degree angle. A refinement would be to make this strip adjustable, either changing its height or changing the distance from the cutting wheel so as to adjust the angle.

A refinement not yet added is a "fence" at both sides of the cutting wheel to make the cutting depth even. In today's experiments, one could fairly well gauge the depth of cut by the cutting wheel itself, but an adjustable fence would be better.

Bob Roberts

Edelpappband / ?Millimeter? Binding Bind-O-Rama, Entry Deadline - October 1, 2005

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