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Re: [BKARTS] Box for Homer



>Pix of a plain drop-back box I just finished:
>http://minsky.com/homer.htm

The amount of interest in this plain box surprised me-- I just posted this
because not everyone knows I do this sort of work. There were no links to
this from my website, and Book_Arts-L was the only place I posted it.
According to the web log,  in the 14 hours after I posted it that page was
viewed 277 times. Today I'll add a link from the online catalogue.

Since I closed my New York City storefront bindery I need to generate
business over the Internet. Out here in rural upstate New York, there are
no sidewalks, much less people who walk. There are plenty of deer,
groundhogs, fox, rabbits, geese and turkeys. On Bleecker Street I had a
constant flow of customers. People would walk in off the street because it
was a high-traffic spot with great visibility. And people from all over the
world would make a point of stopping in when they were in NYC. Stockport is
not a destination for many people.

But since several list members made kind comments about this box, I'll tell
you how to make it. For one thing, it looks like Kris has a conveniently
timed workshop at SFCB, so if you don't know the basics, that sounds like a
good place to begin.  If you've made drop-back boxes before, here's what's
different about this one:

The round spine is made by taking a heavy cardboard tube, like an
industrial cloth core or a cement pillar form, that is the right curvature
for the box you're making, and slicing a piece off it on the table saw that
is the width of the box spine. If it's really thick cardboard, like this
one, it is solid all the way through.  If it's thinner, you can glue a
piece of binder's board across the arc for the inside of the spine.

The label sits in a recess,  made by taking a piece of 2-ply museum board
the size of the curved spine piece, cutting out the windows, and gluing it
on the tube.

The 2 trays are made the usual way. To make the case, glue up the rear
board and place it in position on the cloth, and nip it. Then assemble the
box on that board, glue up the spine piece, insert a piece of 2-ply board
between the spine tube and the cover boards as a spacer to allow room for
the cloth hinge later on, and wrap the cloth onto the spine. Work it smooth
with hand, folder, or whatever, particularly in the windows. Then glue up
the top board, position everything again, wrap the cloth onto it and nip
it.

Do the turn-ins of the case, slitting the cloth a few places around the
spine so it wraps nicely. If you want you can add a piece of cloth over the
spine cap to hide the slits, or you can leave them. In this box I left them
on the tail end and covered at the head.

Then glue in the trays the usual way, and add a cloth hinge across the
inside of the spine, connecting the spine to both trays. To make the felt
lining come out nice & square I laminated the felt to matching Canson paper
first, then glued it in place. On the upper tray I laminated the felt to a
piece of 4-ply black museum board, so it comes a little further into the
lower tray, making a better air seal.  Remember to figure this in when
designing the box if you want to do it, as it adds about 3/32 of an inch to
the depth of the box.

The only reason I lacquered the cloth is that the Kennett cloth is the
weave I wanted to use, but it's awful stuff--the black comes off on your
fingers if they are at all damp and then doesn't come off your hand, even
if scrubbed with soap and water. First I sprayed it with clear gloss
automotive lacquer, then with Krylon Matte Finish. I did that before
putting it on the box, and added a coat of Matte after the box was done.

--
 Richard
 http://minsky.com

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Edelpappband / "Millimeter" Binding Bind-O-Rama, Entry Deadline - October 1, 2005
                                    
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