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Re: [BKARTS] Regarding translucent paper choices and, while I'm at it, adhesives

	Just to be sure, when binding loose sheets into a book, I use a saw kerf binding,  if the margin allows.  I have not
had much success otherwise, even with double fan binding. (I think doing a successful double fan binding requires some
experience, and I'm still working on my skills.) I also find freshly prepared hide glues preferable to any other for
using on the spine.  PVA and starch glues do not have the strength to do the job. Premixed hide glues and other
commercial products have, for me, proved unsuccessful.
	Unhappiness is having pages fall out in an otherwise beautifully bound book.  This will not happen with a saw kerf binding.

Michael Maranda wrote:
> Greetings, oh informative and useful list,
> The information flying about regarding PVAs and cows and bulls are all of
> greaqt use ... thanks to all.
> I am in need of some advice, however, on paper.
> I have a book that I am currently producing with which I ran into a little
> bit of trouble with.
> My first version was printed on  Bienfang 360 graphics rag paper (a
> translucent cotton 'marker' paper) single sided with a laser printer. It's
> around 750 pages long, 11x14 inches, and perfectbound with Weldbond (my
> first venturing into perfect binding alternatives).
> Long story, short version, a few pages have fallen out and, considering the
> time it took for that to happen, I think I need to rethink the mechanics of
> the piece.
> A mitigating factor ... the paper came in pads, and in the midst of it I
> became very unhappy with stripping the sheets out of the pads (the only
> stuff I could find at the time) as the adhesive used by the manufacturer was
> definitely better than the adhesive I've been using ... and around 10% of
> the sheets were greenish. Second mitigating factor, in the meantime I moved
> and the mover seems to have dropped the printer, or something, and it now
> crumples every third to fourth sheet, and I don't think it makes sense to
> get the printer serviced -- I'd rather print the book on my inkjet (an Epson
> 2200).
> The ultimate mitigating factor is that the first version of the book has
> already been sold, so I need to replace the one they have in fairly short
> order.
> So, the questions are as follows ... I need to get a new paper stock that
> prints well with pigment-based inkjet inks -- if necessary, Icould also use
> my old printer, which is dyebased (it's a completely text based piece, with
> very low ink coverage .... maybe 20 words at 10 point per sheet maximum --
> as long as the text is fairly crisp I'll be happy). It has to be fairly
> translucent (the text currently bleeds through about 4 to 5 pages, which is
> the effect I am looking for) and, of course, fairly inexpensive. Either
> rollbased or cut sheet would do.
> It also has to be perfect-bindable (and here is where a combined "use this
> paper and this adhesive" sort of response would be ideal).
> So, any kind soul with words of wisdom? (I'd even take advice from a sole,
> but I use fish glue in some wood-based projects, so I can understand why
> sole's would be unwilling to help out).
> Thanks, all,
> Michael Maranda
> Toronto
> --
> ... recently  released: "On Collecting," a catalogue from the University of
> Lethbridge Art Gallery which includes an essay by Nancy Tousley on the
> bookworks of Michael Maranda.
> http://www.michaelmaranda.com
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J. J. Foncannon
Philadelphia, PA  19139

	The Belgian surrealist painter Renee Magritte entered a cheese store in Brussels to purchase a wheel of Swiss cheese. 
The owner pulled a wheel from the front window, but Magritte said he preferred the one on the back counter.
	?But they are identical,? the owner protested.
	?No,? Magritte insisted.  ?This one?s been stared at.?

Now Online - The Bonefolder, Vol. 2, No. 1 at <http://www.philobiblon.com/bonefolder>
             For all your subscription questions, go to the
                      Book_Arts-L FAQ and Archive.
          See <http://www.philobiblon.com> for full information

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