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Subject: Spider beetles

Spider beetles

From: Michael Maggen <maggen>
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998
Cathy Aster <aster [at] hoover__stanford__edu> writes

>Has anyone had a problem with a spider beetle infestation in a
>library/archive collection storage area?  In particular, I am
>looking for photographic documentation of spider beetle damage to
>paper-based collections.  Additionally, I would like to speak to
>anyone who has dealt with a spider beetle infestation to obtain
>specific information about the observed activities of this
>particular insect.

Recently I searched the web for other matters concerning spider web
and so, I found many sites with relation to pest management so this
can be only a start for your questions.

The following is an excerpt from
<URL:http://gardening.wsu.edu/library/inse005/inse005.htm>
Washington State University "Gardening in Western Washington":

    Spider Management

    You alone can select the methods that will solve your spider
    problem or your reaction to the problem Fortunately, there will
    always be spiders. The best solution is to manipulate the
    environment so the spiders don't live where you do. It is
    unrealistic to expect that spiders can be totally eliminated. On
    the other hand, one need not live with abundant spiders. If you
    can't live with your spiders, some of the following approaches
    can reduce their numbers:

    Habitat modification: those spiders which are capable of moving
    indoors are ones which establish their webs in wood piles, junk
    piles, disused yard furniture or traps, trash bins, outdoor
    stairwells, window frames, porch superstructures, brick piles,
    or ventilation structures. Eliminating or keeping these sites
    relatively clean will help to keep spider populations low.

    Structural modification: prevent spider entry by keeping doors
    and windows screened; by weatherstripping doors so there are no
    openings between the bottom of the door and the doorsill;
    closing gaps around water pipes under sinks; and sealing cracks
    and openings in the house.

    Sanitation inside: Stored boxes, piles of magazines and other
    items in basements create ideal hiding places for spiders. Many
    live out their lives and die without ever being noticed. The old
    practice of spring and fall cleaning is a practical control
    measure. Vacuum behind and under furniture and book cases, along
    baseboards and corners and in storage areas.

    Pesticides (inside): an aerosol bomb or fogger will reduce
    spiders, as well as fleas and other insects that are already
    present. It will not provide residual control for insect coming
    in later. The pesticide also may not penetrate inaccessible
    areas. Follow label directions.

    Pesticides (outside): Diazinon or dursban, can be applied around
    the outside of doors, window, vents, outdoor stairwells or
    window wells, foundations, or cracks and openings. Spray only
    where needed. Be sure that the site, (indoor use, along
    foundations outside, etc.) is listed on the label. The product
    should also be labeled for spiders or nuisance pests.

    Exterminators: Professional pest control operators (PCO's) or
    exterminators will tackle the job for you. There are many
    approaches used by various companies.

    Firewood: Spiders seek warmth and shelter in protected places
    like logs, under piles of rocks, bark and other debris. The wood
    pile is a choice winter residence. Many spiders ride inside on
    the firewood. Protect outside wood piles with covering. The more
    debris that falls on the wood, the more attractive the spiders
    find it. It isn't advisable to spray the wood pile. Pesticides
    with enough residual to keep spiders out could be toxic to
    handle, ant there is no information available on possible health
    effects of burning wood treated with pesticides.

    New construction: if you are adding a room, building a house, or
    remodeling, consider treating the wall voids with relatively
    non-toxic (to humans) boric acid. This material is picked up on
    the insects' body and eaten when the insect grooms itself.

    Intregrated Pest Management

    Usually, successful pest management requires a combination or
    blend of methods. Each situation may require a different
    combination of management strategies.

The following is an excerpt from "Eliminating Spiders Around Homes
and Buildings", By Mike Potter, Extension Entomologist, University
of Kentucky College of Agriculture
<URL:http://www.delphi.com/garden/pests/home/spider-eliminate.html>

    Management Tips (all species)

    Routine, thorough house cleaning is the best way to eliminate
    spiders and discourage their return. A vacuum cleaner or broom
    effectively removes spiders, webs, and egg sacs.

    Spiders prefer quiet, undisturbed areas such as closets,
    garages, basements, and attics. Reducing clutter in these areas
    makes them less attractive to spiders.

    Large numbers of spiders often congregate outdoors around the
    perimeter of structures. Migration indoors can be reduced by
    moving firewood, building materials, and debris away from the
    foundation. Shrubs, vines and tree limbs should be clipped back
    from the side of the building. Maintaining a vegetation-free
    zone next to the house also lowers the moisture content of the
    foundation and siding, making them less attractive to termites,
    carpenter ants, and decay.

    Install tight-fitting window screens and door sweeps to exclude
    spiders and other insects.

    Consider installing yellow or sodium vapor light bulbs at
    outside entrances. These lights are less attractive than
    incandescent bulbs to night-flying insects which, in turn,
    attract spiders.

    To further reduce spider entry from outside, insecticides can be
    applied as a "barrier treatment" around the base of the
    foundation. Pay particular attention to door thresholds, garage
    and crawl space entrances, including foundation vents. Sevin
    (carbaryl), Ficam (bendiocarb), Dursban (chlorpyrifos), or any
    of the synthetic pyrethroids are effective, but may need to be
    reapplied periodically throughout the summer. Wettable powder or
    microencapsulated ("slow-release") formulations are most
    effective.

Michael Maggen
Senior paper conservator
The Israel Museum Jerusalem
Israel

                                  ***
                  Conservation DistList Instance 12:47
               Distributed: Wednesday, November 25, 1998
                       Message Id: cdl-12-47-006
                                  ***
Received on Tuesday, 24 November, 1998

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