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Subject: Marking

Marking

From: Tom James Braun <tom.braun>
Date: Monday, May 5, 2003
Laurel Casjens <mpc_programs [at] byu__edu> writes

>...  I have no facts on how long
>fingernail polish lasts compared to Acryloid B72.  Can anyone give
>us some data? What would happen if we didn't put a top layer on?
>Does any one have data on this? We have very limited work space, so
>leaving artifacts out for hours or overnight is a problem.
>
>Also, for esthetic reasons, we would like to mark dark artifacts
>with a clear base and white ink.  Is there an archival white ink or
>pens that anyone knows about.  I don't find them in the usual
>catalogs.

One technique I like to use is printing the accession numbers in
very small font size (I have gone as small as 5-point font), cutting
them out into small strips of paper, dipping them into acetone/B-72,
and then applying that to the artifact.  It is a one-step operation
requiring no topcoat, and it works on both light and dark-colored
artifacts.  Additionally, people with poor handwriting, such as
myself, can produce very clear and readable labels.

A few important notes; they must be printed using a xerographic
process such as a laser printer or a standard photocopier that uses
dry powdered toner. If you use a bubble jet or inkjet printer, the
colors will run when the label is immersed in the acetone and B-72.
However, you can print the labels on inkjet, and then copy them
using a photocopier, and they will work just fine.  Also, I like to
use 25% or 50% cotton rag paper, as that has good permanence.  I
like to use the "block" letter fonts such as Arial or Helvetica, as
they seem to be the easiest to read when they are very small.
Additionally, depending on the type of artifact, sometimes I use a
water-based emulsion adhesive such as Rhoplex or Jade to attach the
labels. Typically I would use these on artifacts that are sensitive
to acetone, such as certain types of plastics, or artifacts that are
very porous and might be stained by B-72 should it have to be
removed.  I have found these labels to adhere well to artifacts, and
usually, they can be removed by carefully peeling them off using a
scalpel and a tweezers.  I hope this is helpful,

Thomas J. Braun
Daniels Object Conservation Laboratory
Minnesota Historical Society


                                  ***
                  Conservation DistList Instance 16:69
                   Distributed: Tuesday, May 6, 2003
                       Message Id: cdl-16-69-008
                                  ***
Received on Monday, 5 May, 2003

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